The dish is spooky perfection, crazy-making in its clean simplicity, its slinky richness. Butter traces run into oyster liquor, and the amalgamation swirls forward over the sweetness of a vegetable that acts as a starch, and carries the salty pop of the fish eggs carefully toward the tongue.
— Sam Sifton on Tom Colicchio’s Butter-Poached Oysters, in his 3-star review of Colicchio & Sons. Read the rest here.
