Maialino al forno [roasted pork loin, belly, ribs and shoulder] is a sorry-grateful, regretful-happy way to eat dinner. It leaves a diner panting a little, ready for sleep. Have a slice of olive oil cake, like a poundcake just back from a junior year abroad, and you’ll barely make the cab.
—Sam Sifton in his review of Danny Meyer’s Maialino, located in the Gramercy Park Hotel. Sounds straight-out-of-the-gate terrific.
